For this I used photographic paper, which is light sensitive, I layered objective onto the paper in a darkroom allowing the paper to not be exposed to white light. I then exposed the image to white light for a small period of time, after this I placed the image in the first of 3 chemicals, the developer, the image stays in here for 1-2 mins and after that it is put into the stop for 30 seconds-1 min, after the it is placed in the fix for minimum 3 mins then washed in water to remove excess chemicals. Once the image had gone through the dryer, your photogram should be black and white with the objects being mostly white as that is what blocked the light from the paper, and the rest of the image black like mine on the left.
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To achieve a sandwich print I first had to make a normal photogram, using the processes I explained in the first paragraph. After this I got a new piece of photographic paper and placed it on the enlarger, I then laid my first photogram face down on top, I used a glass panel to flatten the images together then turned the light on for a short period of time. After that I took the bottom piece of photographic paper and developed it using the three processes. After this the image was inverted so the background was white and objects were black, like the image on the right.
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To achieve double exposure, I had to expose the photographic paper twice, however as I didn't want over expose the image so I had to expose it for less time, so 1 second twice. First I used my hand on the paper to make the initial background then on the second exposure I had to place thing on the paper as usual and then expose it again. After it had developed it gave a cool image showing both the hand and objects as you can see on the left.
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For this I used the enlarger and photographic paper to create a photogram, after this instead of submerging the image in developer I used a paint brush and painted it on, this allowed for a more unique design to show up as the image was not fully developed. By using a paintbrush it allowed me to choose what part I wanted to develop.
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To create a solarised photogram, I fist had to start the process normally, by using the enlarger and photographic paper and placing objects on to it, after the paper had been exposed too light I dropped it into the developer. But instead of leaving it in there I waited for the image to slightly show up and then I took it out of the developer. After that I placed it imp a tray and then back under the lights, for a short period of time making sure I don't over expose the image. After I exposed the image again I then put it back into the developer and carried out the same process till the photogram was ready.
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For the weaving process, I had to pick out two completed photograms. After this I picked one to cut vertically leaving about 2cm uncut at the top, each of my vertical cuts were 1cm apart. After that I got my second photogram and cut it in strip horizontally, the strips were also 1 cm in width. After this a began weaving the two images together by going under and over and securing with tape once it was done I secured with more tape, and it worked well and you can see by the image on the right.
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I found using the darkroom very interesting and cool. The dark room is dark but lit with red light as that doesn't effect the photographic paper. The room has enlargers, which helps you take the photogram and in the middle are the chemicals that are used to develop the photos. These chemicals are, the developer which is the first chemical you put your image in, it develops the photo, you should leave your image in the developer for around 2 mins. Next you place the image in the stop for around one minute, this stops the image from developing further. Lastly you place the image in the fix, fo0r 3-4 minutes this ensures the image doesn't turn yellow or get affected by the light when you bring it outside the darkroom. The darkroom has rules: for example, don't use your phone, don't leave the paper draw open as it is very expensive and easily ruined by the slightest bit of light, wash your hands after using the chemicals and lastly don't bring the paper out of the dark room before it's developed as the light will ruin the paper.
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For this image I got my friend to sit across the table from me. I used a table as it ensured the camera would be still and my photo wouldn't be blurry. I then exposed the image for just under two seconds as it was very bright this day and did not want to overexpose my image. After taking the photo I covered the pin hole back up, and then developed my photo. This was my result.
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To create this image I had to slightly alter how I took my picture. Instead of exposing it once for longer I exposed it twice for two shorter periods of time. I first took a image exposing it for 1 second, moved my camera to a new image, after this I exposed the image for another 1 second. Then developed it as it had caught two images. Here was my result.
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For this task I used my can to take a photo. First I put my photographic paper into the can. Then I stood in front of the corner of a buildings, close enough to get a clear image, I exposed the pin whole for around 2 seconds, making sure not to over expose the image. I had to repeat this 3 times before I got the correct exposure that I was happy with. I then developed the photo using the normal processes and this was my image.
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Ben Nathan is an artist and photographer, who founded pinhole London. He uses cans to create his own camera obscura. We took inspiration from his work and created our own pinhole cameras. His artistic skills reflects on the functionality of the city and its industry and documenting urban change. His explorations into infrastructure and photography questions the changing nature of our cities environment and access to public or private space.
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In this task we used film camera's to take photos. To start this process we had to load the film into the camera. To do this we had to go into the darkroom as the film we were using is light sensitive. We fed the film through the back of the camera, making sure it was in properly and wouldn't get stuck. Once we did this we had to play around with the apertures to ensure at least some of our images would be correctly exposed.
Me and my partner took 16 photos, all with changing apertures, we took photos of our partners behind different backgrounds to create more interesting images. We did this over two lesson then started the process of developing our images. |
Firstly we made a contact sheet using our negatives, which we had loaded into a plastic sheet, which had 6 compartments which we fed the film through. After this we used small pieces of photographic paper, and used them as test strips. We set up our sheet of negatives and placed the photographic paper under it. Using a piece of black card, I tested out how long the image should b exposed for, by covering certain parts of the paper and letting some of the image get more exposure than other parts. Me and my partner repeated this a couple of times until we found the right time for our negatives that was 9 seconds.
After we found the correct time we placed a full size piece of paper onto the negatives and exposed the whole thing for 9 seconds, to make our contact sheet. Here was my result. |